I recently decided that in order to hone my skills in garment construction I should knit a cardigan without using a pattern (make my own). Also, I don't have any knitting pattern software to help me. Although I have 1000s of patterns at my disposal I wanted to "do it myself" so that I could really grasp what I am doing and why instead of just blindly following directions.

The back and fronts of course aren't too difficult. I made myself go through the process of figuring out my gauge, figuring out the measurements, then figuring out my numbers of stitches, decreases, increases, etc. So all that is done, the button band is done and the measurements turned out perfectly. (Software would have made this much easier, though, I'm sure!)

As I expected, the sleeves are where I need help. I could "cheat" and use a sleeve from a similar pattern, but I want to figure this out. Of course I know how sleeves are constructed since I've knit many sweaters, but here is where I need help:

How do you figure the depth of the sleeve cap? I did glance at some patterns but didn't notice any consistency in this. I have a 7-1/2" armhole. Patterns with the same size armhole varied in the depth of the sleeve cap anywhere from 4-1/2"-6-1/2". (I would have assumed that the the depth would be GREATER than the armhole depth since it has to go over the shoulder but I guess that is not correct?) Can anyone give me a rule of thumb for this - a fitted sleeve with a little ease at the cap. Also, is there a rule of thumb for the maximum width of the sleeve at the underarm?

If I can figure out what the measurements need to be, I think I can figure out the rest. Thanks!

MaryKB,

Knitty had an article referenced below which discusses the very issue you want to know about. There is a great deal of information in this article which may answer your questions. I hope it helps.

http://www.knitty.com/ISSUEwinter04/FEATwin04TBP.html

Wow, that's great! I think that is just what I need. Thanks!

I have never looked at any websites regarding this matter, so I have no idea what advice they offer.

My advice is for your NEXT project.

Start with the sleeves.

It is far, far easier to make a front or back fit the top of a sleeve, than it is to make the sleeve fit the armhole.

Of course there are many different forms of sleeve top, some more challenging than others.

Decide what style you want and knit away. Sew up the sleeve seam, and put it on the intended recipient, or someone of similar proportions. See how your sleeve top lies, and if necessary, trace the shape you need for the top of the fronts and back.

I can only tell you this is how I have been doing it for more than 30 years and it works. No-one has complained yet!

Best wishes, John

John, that is an interesting twist. We are so used to beginning with the back, then the front, and lastly the sleeves. I don't know about everyone else, but the sleeves are my least favorite part. (For some reason they seem endless and I hate sewing up sleeve seams) Maybe getting the sleeves done first - and then moving on to the "fun" parts is a good idea!

BTW, whenever possible I do sleeves on DPNs because I hate those seams so much. When I get to the armhole BO, I switch to a circular and work it in rows.

Go for it!

I love knitting the sleeves first as I tend to enjoy the other parts of the sweater more so once again thanks John!

I would recommend Ann Budd's book (I am almost sure that is the correct author.) She has a book with the very basics of designs so you can knit your own items. I am knitting a vest based some what on her information and it is coming out great!

something else to think about is that a sleave makes a really good second gauge test. if your gauge is wonky (sometimes the swatch doesn't let you know) and you find out in a sleave it is much less painful to frog it and begin again. three inches of sleave is a lot less to cry over than six or so inches of a front or back